Lock Loops Vs Soft Spikes
Golf Shoes
Softspikes – The Tour Lock Technology, a new low-profile cleat system for the golf shoes
February 9, 2016 – Softspikes, the world’s leading cleat brand, has revealed its new Tour Lock Insert System which was designed and developed on the company’s popular Fast Twist thread and receptacle technology.
The system, which will be used in FootJoy’s flagship D.N.A. 2.0, FreeStyle and HydroLite shoes in 2016, utilises an ultra-low receptacle profile that has been engineered to measure only 4mm to bring golfers closer to the ground.
The new technology also features Softspikes’ new patent pending Cross System Protection (CSP). Inserting a post in the base of the receptacle allows for cleats only developed for the Tour Lock system to fit in the shoe, therefore eliminating the risk of improper cleats being inserted.
Having recognised a demand for a low profile, “Fast Twist” system, Softspikes engineers have combined the strength and durability of Fast Twist with the low profile technology of PINS (Performance INsert System), providing the most durable and reliable system in the market.
Golfers will also enjoy the backward compatibility of the new technology, with Tour Lock cleats able to fit into any Fast Twist or Tri-Lok/Slim-Lok receptacle. The new Tour Lock system will be available in Softspikes’ new Silver Tornado aftermarket cleat.
Softspikes Pulsar Tour Lock Golf Spikes - Pulsar delivers maximum comfort and performance through a 16 component design that reacts to every angle of force exerted by the golfer. Lowest Prices on Softspikes Spikes and Wrenches at Golf Discount. Golf spikes can be made out of three materials: metal, synthetic rubber (also called soft spikes), and ceramic. Metal Spikes. Metal spikes were one of the first modern golf shoe spikes created, and were essentially just metal posts that were screwed onto the bottom of your golf shoes.
More information at www.softspikeseurope.com.
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I understand that 'layman intuition' may be a factor here, that a spike feels solid and rigid to the touch and would make the speaker 'stay absolutely still'.
As an engineer, my intuition (and my experiments) indicate that spikes makes no sense whatsoever (edit: and I have Mr Newton and a bunch of other like really old guys hinting that my intuition aligns pretty well with with their work -work that kinda was essential to putting a man on the moon which elegedly worked out pretty OK). A bunch of spikes screwed tightly into a normal sized speaker, in my mind, is pretty much a high-Q resonant coupling to antother unknown, but not seldom resonant object (the floor).
If you want the speakers to stay still in the audible range and also not transfer any dicernible energy to other objects, a soft, 'floating' coupling with a resonant frequency outside, preferably below the audible range, would be the best option.
So, why do the majority of speaker manufacturers ship their 'high-end' speakers with spikes?!? It makes no sense whatsoever, unless you want the posibility of having both the speaker resonate at say 50-200Hz and also risking to have say, the wooden floor in the listening room chiming in-which the speaker manufacturers have pretty much no influence over whatsoever- they stand on emmit sound!?!
Enlighten me, please!
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- chris
my build thread - updated 8-20-12 - new seating installed and projector isolation solution
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U know me ccotenj. I will ask questions that are taken for granted. So why spikes on carpet? To prevent movement of speaker? That is it?
Stability. Nothing more.
If you can't explain how it works, you can't say it doesn't.—The High-End Creed
yup...
when mine were standing on a wood floor, i used sliders... now that they are on carpet, i use spikes...
- chris
my build thread - updated 8-20-12 - new seating installed and projector isolation solution
What's the idea behind spikes under speakers?!?
I understand that 'layman intuition' may be a factor here, that a spike feels solid and rigid to the touch and would make the speaker 'stay absolutely still'.
As engineers, we know better. A speaker vibrates, and while one might reduce the vibration, it can't be eliminated. On balance, the vibration is usually small, and makes little difference.
Quote:
As an engineer, my intuition (and my experiments) indicate that spikes makes no sense whatsoever (edit: and I have Mr Newton and a bunch of other like really old guys hinting that my intuition aligns pretty well with with their work -work that kinda was essential to putting a man on the moon which allegedly worked out pretty OK). A bunch of spikes screwed tightly into a normal sized speaker, in my mind, is pretty much a high-Q resonant coupling to another unknown, but not seldom resonant object (the floor).
Another way to look at it is to consider the mass of the cone, which varies from a few grams to several hundred for the cone of a 18' subwoofer, and compare that to the mass of the enclosure which is always thousands and often tens of thousands of grams. Any cone motion is divided by the mass of what it acts against, which is generally a whole lot greater.
Quote:
If you want the speakers to stay still in the audible range and also not transfer any dicernible energy to other objects, a soft, 'floating' coupling with a resonant frequency outside, preferably below the audible range, would be the best option.
As an experiment, one can compare the sound of a speaker that is hung by thin fishing line to the same speaker sitting on spikes. In the real world there ain't much difference.
Quote:
So, why do the majority of speaker manufacturers ship their 'high-end' speakers with spikes?!? It makes no sense whatsoever, unless you want the posibility of having both the speaker resonate at say 50-200Hz and also risking to have say, the wooden floor in the listening room chiming in-which the speaker manufacturers have pretty much no influence over whatsoever- they stand on emmit sound!?!
Same reason why so many speakers have 'biamp terminals' or 'biwiring terminals'. No good technical reason but someone told them that it matters.
So why spikes on carpet?
The idea is that, provided they go deep enough, they will couple the speaker to the concrete or floor underneath. Which is the same thing they will do when there is no carpet. The corners of the cabinet are the most rigid points, structurally, and this is where you would want to couple them.
But please don't ask why you would want to do that. You can read plenty about spiking speakers online.
Stability. Nothing more.
Frankly speaking it is the stupidest idea ever. Spikes for stability? Seriously?
If you want stability, use the speaker legs supplied by def tech. I got some from Chet for my friends Infinity floor standers that came with stupid spikes. They work best on any kind of floor, be it carpet or wood floor.
I guess the same reason why some people put them on cinder blocks or heavy stands to solidify them.
You might not be able to eliminate all the vibration of the enclosure, but I would think you can dampen it. The pounds per square foot must be a lot higher on the spikes 'surface' than flat on carpet which means more force is necessary to move them, right? The opposite would be to place them on ball bearings. I am no engineer, so correct me if I'm wrong.
Is this a major NO-NO? Or will I be ok?
I read this speaker spikes and understand why they might be important. I am awaiting these in the mail Bello Speaker Stands and I will use the spikes. Because I have 4 kids under 13 running around, I was thinking of velcro-ing my bookshelfs to the stand to avoid any accidental knocking over thinking that they would really have to crush the stand to knock over everything if the speaker is velcroed to the stand.
Is this a major NO-NO? Or will I be ok?
use blu tack to hold them to the stands...
- chris
my build thread - updated 8-20-12 - new seating installed and projector isolation solution
I think the fancy protruding feet of the bello stands makes it prone to get knocked over.
I haven't gotten them yet, but from the pics, the base looks fairly wide, and the spikes don't looks to be more than a 1/2 inch or so.
use blu tack to hold them to the stands...
Or maybe Super Glue, though with four kids under 13 they can probably take out stands, speakers, walls, doors...
Guess this is not the place to discuss bolting speakers to stands, and stands to the floor, in a bar I worked at in my youth?
Yes, it actually makes sense, and does something that you can reliably perceive!
Yes, it actually makes sense, and does something that you can reliably perceive!
lol!
another recommendation for blue tack.
Or maybe Super Glue, though with four kids under 13 they can probably take out stands, speakers, walls, doors...
Guess this is not the place to discuss bolting speakers to stands, and stands to the floor, in a bar I worked at in my youth?
he might want to bolt the stands to the floor...
was that the kind of bar where they also screwed the chairs and tables to the floor to keep them from being used in fights?
- chris
my build thread - updated 8-20-12 - new seating installed and projector isolation solution
ratm, I think the speakers might be safer if you bolt the kids to the floor.
Little Johnny: 'Mommy, Mommy, why do I keep walking around in circles?'
Mommy: 'Shut up, Little Johnny, or I'll nail your other foot to the floor.'
/rimshot
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was that the kind of bar where they also screwed the chairs and tables to the floor to keep them from being used in fights?
We gave up on that. It was an interesting place to work.
Curious about Blu Tack as I have never used it: will it actually grip and hold the speaker tight enough to not fall? And if so, what if you need to pull the speaker off the stand (e.g. to replace a driver after the kids threw a ball into it )?
I haven't gotten them yet, but from the pics, the base looks fairly wide, and the spikes don't looks to be more than a 1/2 inch or so.
exactly. it is wide, and not in a symmetrical or predictable fashion. Therefore i predict that somebody walking past it will unintentionally hit their foot to the protruding feet.
Alternatively, you could place some decorative plants, pots, bricks, whatever around them to make the extensions more visible.
We gave up on that. It was an interesting place to work.
Curious about Blu Tack as I have never used it: will it actually grip and hold the speaker tight enough to not fall? And if so, what if you need to pull the speaker off the stand (e.g. to replace a driver after the kids threw a ball into it )?
i bet it was...
re: blu tack... yup... plenty strong to hold it on there...
yea, they come off easily enough with a little elbow grease... i would caution against using too much though... when i sold my sierras to another user here, it took a considerable amount of elbow grease to get one of them off the stand...
i use blu tack as a defense against the submersives on many things in my house... it's right up there with duct tape in terms of usefulness...
- chris
my build thread - updated 8-20-12 - new seating installed and projector isolation solution
exactly. it is wide, and not in a symmetrical or predictable fashion. Therefore i predict that somebody walking past it will unintentionally hit their foot to the protruding feet.
Holy spikes, Batman. Those things scream bad trip and fall + bad injuries = expensive lawsuit for inherently dangerous design against manufacturer.
This is why products need a common sense QA person examining them before final approval. Those things are inherently dangerous for home use.
Lock Loops Vs Soft Spikes 2
sigh...
enough of digressing, so now I have to rethink these stands. DIY is out so not even an option. I could not install the spikes if that would be a 'safer' route. I was going to go with these HTD Stands to match the Level 3 Bookshelfs that I just ordered and have on the way. Thoughts?
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